Bogota

Colombia's capital Bogotá is a vast mish-mash of futuristic architecture, great colonial edifices, majestic looking dwellings, shantytowns, sharp suited business types, beggars, blue collar workers, drug dealers, mule trains and fuming traffic jams. Chaotic, intriguing and aggressive the rich and the poor live shoulder to shoulder the yet exist in worlds that will be forever separated by seemingly ever broadening abyss. Craziness is everywhere, from the sci-fi like mix of old and new architecture to the elegant department stores and bedraggled street vendors - you're almost as likely to be hit by a donkey cart as a VW.

Bogotá is proud of its heritage and rightly so; the Museo Del Oro contains possibly the most important collection of 24K gold pre-Columbian relics in the world including objects from the Chibchas, Tayronas, Sinu and Una Indian tribes. Equally impressive is the Museo Nacional , the first floor of which contains a wealth of fascinating pre-Columbian artefacts, whilst its second floor explores Colombia's fight for independence and the third floor consist of exhibitions of paintings by Botero, Obergon, Velasquez and other national artists. Amongst the many colonial churches Iglesia de Santa Clara, houses many fine frescoes and ornate altarpieces, and Iglesia de Ignacio is reputedly one of the most richly decorated churches in South America. Those with a fascination for Colonial architecture should spend some time wandering around La Cadelaria, the City's oldest quarter.

Plaza De Santander is one of the many focal points for social activities, a colourful meeting place for locals, young and old that wish to relax, have a chat and enjoy the many buskers. The area around Candelaria is famous for its art galleries, colonial charm and thriving café scene, boosted by its proximity to several university buildings. Mercado De Las Pulgas is the place to head on a Sunday, the flea market there is exciting and vibrant, even if some of the items on sale are a little puzzling. For those with some cash to burn or who are just plain curious the nearby emerald market is a real eye opener. If you want a truly amazing view of Bogotá and the chance of maybe witnessing a miracle then best head for Cerro De Monserrate , whilst those wanting something a little less strenuous could do worse that paying a visit to the wonderful Jardin Botanico Jose Celestino Mutis with its incredible collection of exotic flora.

Entertainment wise there is a great arts and music scene, with theatre, opera and classical music extremely well patronised. For the less intellectual at heart the Zona Rosa is a hotbed of sweaty discos and Cuban rhythms but if it's a crowd you're looking for try one of the many soccer matches or perhaps a bullfight. Dining is no problem as Colombian food is amongst the finest in South America, consisting of spicy soups, incredible beef dishes and too many fruit and vegetable types to even begin to list. Ethnic food is widely available with Chinese, Greek, Indian and Italian amongst the most popular.

In truth, despite reports to the contrary, Bogotá is really no more dangerous than any other big city and the same common sense rules apply as does whenever you visit somewhere of this size. The people are generally hard working, efficient and friendly and you are virtually guaranteed a warm welcome wherever you go. For the headstrong it is simply a must-see city, for true adventurer it's both challenging and exciting it is and for the intellectual it a place that holds untold rewards. Trust your instincts... Go see for yourself!

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