Bordeaux

First impressions may be that Bordeaux is a little neglected, almost grimy in appearance, but one has to remember that this is a major port and a thriving, extremely industrious city. A closer look will reveal a wealth of beautiful neo-classical architecture, wide avenues and lovely well-kept public parks. An ideal place to begin your exploration is at The Porte Cailhau (Cailhau Gate), one of the two city gates, which were not destroyed by Tourny, in the 18th century. Strongly resembling a fortified castle, this triumphal arch has wonderful views of the river Garonne and the City. Bordeaux most significant landmark, insomuch as you can see it from almost everywhere, is the 15th century Saint Michael Bell Tower, which at the time of construction was the 2nd tallest structure of its kind in France. Built separately from its namesake basilica it houses an ancient crypt below.

Many of Bordeaux’s principal buildings have religious origins. The Palais Rohan, which is now City Hall, was built as a residence for the archbishop of Bordeaux in the 18th century. Inside there are beautiful Louis XVI drawing rooms with exquisite wood panelling and a magnificent central staircase. The Annonciades Convent, home of the Sisters of Mercy from 1519 has splendid Renaissance cloisters, gothic chapel and a 16th century entombment. On Rue du Grand Rabbin Joseph Cohen stands Bordeaux’s Synagogue, a mixture of Sephardic and Byzantine styles. Originally inaugurated in 1882 it was ravaged by the Nazis and used as a prison. Following the war it was meticulously rebuilt according to the original plans. Also worth a visit is the Paleo Christian archaeological site, the 400m2 excavation of a Gallo Roman necropolis with ancient sarcophagi, amphorae and other interesting finds.

Bordeaux also has a strong artistic history (Francis Goya painted a large part of his body of work here) and accordingly has a plethora of fine museums and galleries. The Museum of Fine Arts has an extensive collection of paintings, sculptures and drawings from the 16th to 20th century including works by Titian, Ribens, Van Dyck, Chardin, Vincent, Renoir and Matisse. The Museum of Contemporary Art has temporary exhibitions of work predominantly from the 60s and 70s whilst the Museum of decorative arts specialises in faience, porcelain, silverwork, glasswork etc. Other non-art museums of note are the Natural History Museum with its large collection of animal and fossil specimens and Centre Jean Moulin that traces the history of WWII, in particular the French Resistance and Free France movement.

Of course virtually nobody would visit Bordeaux without exploring the surrounding wine country and the magnificent Chateaux. A popular outing is along the Medoc Wine road where orderly well-kept vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see. It is also the home of the famous wine communes of Moulis, Listac, Saint Julien and Margaux. Cote de Bourg is often referred to as ‘Little Switzerland’ due to its hilly terrain. It is famous for meticulous winemakers to whom the craft is almost a religion. Like the City the Bordeaux wine region is also steeped in history. The Graves de Vayre is a magnificent chateau that once belonged to Henry IV whilst the Cotes de Castillion is the region where the One Hundred Year War finally came to an end. If you wish to visit any of the chateaux it is advisable to phone in advance and check if tours are available. This can depend on season, workload and the owner’s mood. The Maison du Vin de Bordeaux, situated in front of the tourist office can supply you with good maps, vineyard guides and information on each district or appellation.

Thanks to the student population Bordeaux has a vibrant nightlife, although this does mean that much of the entertainment is aimed at the youth market. That’s not to say there isn’t enough to keep a member of any generation of visitor happy during a visit. Le Pana has live Jazz every Sunday and live music on Monday and Tuesday, which often develops into a jam session. The Cricketers also has live music two or three times a week. For more highbrow entertainment there is the magnificent Grand Theatre a venue that lives up to its name in every way. The Theatre Femina has a mixed programme of drama, dance and variety shows. If you want to dance until the early hours you could do worse than checking out Le Zoo, where techno and house music is pumped to full volume, whilst the more alternative hard edged clubber should check out Le Cavineau with its mix of punk rock, reggae and ska along with occasional live concerts. As you would imagine from the wine capital of France, dining out is generally superb. For those on a budget the restaurants around Place de la Victoire are your best bet as it is predominantly a student hang out and is therefore priced accordingly.

So when you’re planning your trip to France, don’t simply dismiss Bordeaux as a place to drink wine and nothing else. There really is far more to do. From the glorious Beaches on the nearby Atlantic coast to the wonderful surrounding countryside. From the wealth of art and culture all within walking distance to the lively nightlife and fine food. Bordeaux is a city, it is a region, it is a wine and moreover it is a way of life.

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