Lyons

Lyon, the ‘gastronomic capital of France’ is also a treasure trove of beautiful architecture, splendid museums, wonderful parks and fine wine. Only 2hrs from Paris on the TGV, it makes a somewhat relaxing change from the relentless bustle of the capital and is certainly far easier to handle when time is limited. Often perceived as overly conservative, Lyon actually enjoys a vibrant culture and happening social scene mainly derived from the Lyonaise love affair with good food and wine. More than anywhere else in the country eating out is a revered pass time.

Before you eat you should take a few hours exploring. The City is very beautiful and has one of the largest concentrations of gothic architecture in Europe. Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) is a fascinating maze of cobbled streets, home to over 300 completely restored medieval and Renaissance buildings. Here tasteful modern development has created a thriving hub of social activity where the cool-and-trendy shop or hang out at the numerous bars, cafes and restaurants. At the edge of Vieux Lyon is the imposing 19^th Century Palais de Justice with its impressive 24 column frontage.A few hundred yards further along the Quai Romain Rolland is the magnificent Cathedral Saint Jean. A combination of Romanesque and flamboyant gothic design, construction began in the late 12^th century and was not completed until 300 years later. Today the centuries-old astronomical clock housed in the Cathedral still sounds every hour.

Lyon’s other main religious edifice is the architecturally controversial Notre Dame de Fouviere. Inaugurated in 1896 this stunning building is a chaotic mixture of styles and materials. At night it really does look like something created George Lucas’ Industrial Light and Sound movie effects studio. Lyon, it seems, is quite fond of its continued love/hate relationship with architecture. Most recently Lyonaise architect Tony Garnier has been the subject of much discussion. Responsible for designing the in credible Gerard Stadium in 1914, he went on to create the low cost housing estate in the thirties that now serves as an open-air museum – the only one of its kind in France. On the side of 24 of the 50 seven-storey apartment blocks are a series of amazing 220m² murals each depicting various aspects of Garnier’s ‘ideal city’.

Not quite on the same scale as the Tony Garnier Museum but arguably more impressive is Musee des Beaux Arts, which, after the Louvre, is the largest and most interesting museum of fine arts in France. Situated at the heart of the City in a former monetary (le Palais Saint Pierre) the permanent exhibition covers art and crafts from ancient Greek, Roman and Egyptian to works by Picasso, Chagall, Bonnard, Degat and Bacon. Those who are interested in cinema will enjoy a visit to the birthplace of modern cinema at the Institut Lumiere Pour le Cinema, which is housed in a beautiful villa - formerly home of the pioneering Lumiere Brothers. This fascinating museum traces the history of early motion pictures from its naissance to the development of the first picture houses.

Lyon is also regarded as a shopper’s paradise. The beautiful architecture and relaxed ambience combined with the town’s easy layout and the ever-convenient Traboules (short cuts through and under buildings connecting the streets) means a day’s shopping is not only a pleasure but it is also relatively easy on the feet.Check out the attractive area around the Presqui’ile and the department stores on Rue Victor Hugo. Or discover the latest fashions in Lyon’s famous Golden triangle on Rue Emile Zola, Rue Gasparin and Rue de la Republic, where you’ll find top designers and luxury boutiques – Cartier, Hermes and Lacroix etc. If antiques are your bag Rue Auguste Comte has a fascinating dealers market and for across the board shopping the Part Dieu is Europe’s largest town centre shopping mall with over 260 stores.

Although it may not be as high profile as many of France’s other major cities the entertainment in Lyon is usually of the very highest standard. The National Opera is housed in a spectacular domed, Italian style hall with 18 levels, its main hall capable of seating 1200. The Theatres Romains is an incredible outdoor venue located in the 15 century BC ruins of a Roman theatre. It regularly presents concerts by major international stars and has a seating capacity of 10,000. Although somewhat understated the nightlife is pretty good especially in Vieux Lyon, along the banks of the Saone and the central peninsula. Here you’ll find everything you could wish for from a big city – casinos, cabaret, café-theatres, bars and discos that cater for all musical tastes.

Of course the highlight of any night out in Lyon is dining. This is after all the birthplace of what is considered by many to be authentic French cuisine. It is also where Nouvelle Cuisine was developed, when the Japanese came over to learn about European cooking and worked with Lyonaise chefs to develop aesthetically pleasing (and very tasty) dishes. Like most modern towns and cities Lyon offers a wide selection of international cuisine but it is at home grown cooking that the it excels; from wholesome local dishes served in bistros or bouchons to the finest and most expensive restaurants in the Country. Bouchons were originally taverns that not only served travellers hot food and local wine but also offered a horse grooming service whilst they ate (the brush used was a bouchon). Eventually they developed into value for money eateries that catered for the silk workers once so prevalent throughout the City. Here workers could get a tasty, nourishing and inexpensive hot meal, served in a homely atmosphere. Today, following a resurgence in the popularity of traditional food, it is pretty much business as usual; although there is some dispute as to what an authentic bouchon should serve and the prices can vary widely. The most popular belief is that meals should be based around pork dishes served with local red wine – Beaujolais.

Lyon is well worth a visit, even if it is just to admire the architecture, do a spot of shopping and enjoy a good meal or two. It’s also the best place to try the locally produced Beaujolais and buy a few bottles to take home. The surrounding wine country is also fantastic for those who enjoy the great outdoors with over 20,000 hectares of vineyards and fantastic views. So forget what you’ve heard about staid, austere Lyon and spend at least a day there. You’re guaranteed to come away fulfilled and, more to the point, full up.
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