Strasbourg

As far back as roman times the City has prospered due to its excellent transport links between northern and central Europe with the Mediterranean. Its proximity to Germany and Switzerland is also instrumental in the growth of the tourist industry and it now welcomes nearly 3 million tourists every year.

The City’s most popular tourist attraction and principal edifice is the breathtakingly elaborate Notre Dame Cathedral. Built between 1176 and 1439 it was never actually completed. It has only one of its proposed two spires, although, it has to be said, that the 142 high point if impressive enough on its own. Much of the original exterior statuary is now kept in the Cathedral’s museum, housed in a medieval building on its grounds but the famous astrological clock still draws a crowd every day at 12.30pm when the rooster crows and flaps its wings, the apostles march around Jesus and the Dance of Death begins it’s eerie march.

The elegant 18th century Chateau des Rohans or Palais Rohans was built as a residence for Cardinal Armand de Rohan-Soulise in the times when Bishops were of royal lineage. Today this luxurious building with its grand white rooms and gilded decoration is home to three museums. On the first floor there is the Museum of Fine Arts, which covers the history of painting in Europe from the Middle Ages to 1870. The exhibition includes work by Italian and Flemish ‘Primitives’, Giotto and Hans Memling. Also in the collection are Renaissance and Mannerism paintings by Botticelli, Raphael and El Greco whilst the Realism and Classicism of the 17th and 18th centuries is represented by, amongst others, Rubens, Van Dyck and Goya. On the ground floor of the Palais is the Museum of Decorative Art, which contains the apartments of the Cardinals and includes decorative art from 1681 to the mid 19th century including Hannoy ceramics, furniture, paintings, clocks and watches. The Palais basement houses the Archaeological Museum, which is considered one of the most important in France and covers the region’s history from 600,000BC to 800AD.

A favourite amongst visitors and natives alike is the Petite France Quarter. Situated in the heart of the City this picturesque area with its 16th and 17th century Alsatian Renaissance architecture was once home to the tanners, millers and fishermen who prospered here. Today it’s a popular meeting place, the oldest parts filled with great pubs and restaurants. Petite France’s most famous landmark is the 17th century covered bridge or Barrage Vauban with its three defensive towers. Nearby is the picturesque Church of St.Thomas, which was commissioned by Louis XV from sculptor Jean Baptiste Pigall and is dominated by the tomb of Marechal de Saxe. Mozart played the Church’s organ on his visit to Strasbourg.

Strasbourg is also the birthplace of Frances most popular beer, Kronenbourg the first barrel of which was produced in 1664 by Jerôme Hatt. In 1850, the brewery was transferred to Cronenbourg, a Strasbourg suburb, which was safe from flooding. Originally the label simply depicted a tiger, an easily recognisable symbol for those who could not read, but was eventually replaced by the name Kroneberg. Today it is available in 127 countries. Free tours of the brewery in French, German and English are conducted but it well advised to check the timetable and call ahead to avoid disappointment. Kronebourg’s nearest rival Heineken, which is brewed in the suburb of Schiltigheim and again you should call first as tours are only available by prior booking.

The City’s other favourite tipple is, of course, wine and the region surrounding Strasbourg dates back around 2000 years. A drive along the Route du Vin is a pleasant way to spend a few hours. The countryside is green and there are delightful little towns scattered throughout the region. Ribeauville lies in the shadow of two castles perched on a hilltop its main street lined with half-timbered houses their balconies overflowing with flowers. Riquelwihr has some magnificent 16th and 17th century buildings and an air of yesteryear and as with most of these little towns (Ribeauville included) there are many places where you can taste and buy the delicious local wines.

As you would expect from a town with such a large student population, especially when it is situated at the crossroads of Europe, the nightlife in Strasbourg is fantastic. The narrow streets behind the Cathedral are popular with the scholarly residents and it is within this area you’ll find most of the inexpensive bars and restaurants. Alsatian winstubs can be found on every corner. Here diners are seated together on long tables whilst traditional, predominantly ham based, dishes are served in a lively and friendly atmosphere. International cuisine is also widely available especially North African and Kosher. For a little after dinner entertainment there’s a great choice of bars clubs, nightclubs and live venues. The premier place to catch a live act is at La Laterie, which has an impressive programme of international artists playing everything from jazz to reggae, blues to French chansons. Of course fans of dance, techno, acid house, punk, funk and R&B are also well catered for and there are plenty of opportunities for dancing till dawn.

It’s easy to see why Strasbourg is so popular. Its location makes it an ideal stop over for those travelling through Europe and there’s more than enough to keep visitors occupied and entertained no matter how long there visit may be. The surrounding region is unquestionably beautiful and the inner city has cosmopolitan charm that is hard to resist. Its Germanic roots are reflected in its culture, art and gastronomy, not to mention its wine and beer brewing. It is, therefore, often perceived as being one of more accessible and friendly of French cities. A reputation, I might add, that serves it well.

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